It started with my husband and I trying to figure a weekend getaway with the sole purpose of discovering India. Or perhaps it started long before, with my keen interest in the temple architecture of India. I have visited some amazing temples of Angkor Wat, Somnath, Gangeshwar, Dilwara etc. over the last few years and that have left a remarkable impression on my mind.
The Hassan district houses some of the greatest temple architecture from the Hoysala Empire dating back to 10th - 14th centuries and includes the areas of Belur, Halebidu. Historians have mentioned that larger parts of the present Karnataka and Western Ghat regions were then ruled by Western Ganga empire which held patronage for Jainism.
Site 1 - Shravanabelagola and Chandagiri Hills
Shravanabelagola is a celebrated Jain temple with a 60 ft tall Bahubali statue atop a mountain. The statue is visible from the highway when driving towards the site, situated just 12 kms off the Mangalore - Bangalore highway. One can only trek the mountain barefoot or wearing socks, which includes 600+ steps on a steep slope and 2 storied complexes housing sculptures of Gods and Goddesses, eventually ending with the central statue.
On the mountain adjacent to Shravanabelagola is the temple complex of Chandragiri hill, the name derived from Chandragupta who is known to have devoted himself to Jaisnism and had renounced in these caves. There are a total of 14 temples which were dedicated to renowned members or pandits of the time to practice meditation and Jainism. The main basadi or temple has beautiful carvings on the doors and 3 layers of passages before the main shrine. While the other 13 basadis are merely run down versions with shrines installed at a much later period.
There is one cave on the adjacent hill peak which has footprints belonging to Chandragupta himself; localites say this is the cave where the great king spent his end days in meditation.
Site 2 - Lakshmi Narayana Temple, Nuggehalli
Located just 3 kms off the highway in the village district of Nuggenhali and 25 kms ahead from Shravanabelagola, this temple is a tough route to pick up on the maps. To reach this temple you have to travel inside the village of Nuggehalli through narrow roads. Although the main temple was closed when we arrived, we were able to walk around the grounds to explore the outer beauty
Site 3 - Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu
This is one gorgeous site! The rich architectural delights, temple layout, green landscape and a museum housing the remains from the vicinity all make up for a good 2 hour excursion. The temple has 2 super structures both are dedicated to Lord Shiva with two 30 ft wide Nandi facing each of the shrines. The richness of the carvings, total area spread, coverage of all possible deities and apsara's give an indication that this site was a powerful center during the 12th century.
Site 4 - Kedareshwara Temple, Halebidu
This temple is an offshoot of the main Hoysala temple located just 7 mins walking ahead on the main road. The site seemed more neglected than all the others we visited, with many of the shrines missing and the porch inside smelling of 1000 year old soapstone making it almost unbearable to breath. Noteworthy of a 10 min drop by only if you have time at hand.
Site 5 - Veera Narayana Temple, Belavadi
Just 11 kms ahead from Hoysaleshwara temples is the site of Belavadi. This is also the location cited in Mahabharatha where Bheema killed the demon Bakasura to protect the village and its people. This is a 3 shrine temple built by King Veera Ballala II and holds 108 pillars. This is a classic example of the richness in sculpture during the Hoysala Kingdom with intricately carved shrines for Narayana, Krishna & Narsimha - all different forms of Lord Vishnu hence making this a pure Vaishnava temple site. The Krishna deity has intricate carvings and is more elaborate compared to the other 2 shrines.
Site 6 - Chennakeshwara Temple, Belur
This site is 40 kms ahead of Hassan towards Chikmagalur on the banks of Ygachi river, built by Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana. The majestic site houses sculptures from both Vaishanava and Shaiva faiths and has the most remarkable pillar designs. Also unique to the exterior construction is the representation of different deities in their various forms ranging from war, dance, yogasana postures etc. These include the forms of Durga, Ravana, Ganesha, Arjuna and many others all depicted in certain actions they are most renowned for, as per legends.
All in all, you will need a maximum of 2 days to cover the listed places. Staying at Hassan city center is the best option since its location is convenient to all the sites. The Bangalore - Mangalore highway is a pleasant drive in the hilly region.
