Monday, August 1, 2011

Saurashtra... to be precise Gujarat - a humble experience


A travel list always existed and there are the fixed top 20 destinations to cover, but I never really planned Saurashtra - the south west region of Gujarat which comprises of the famous Rajkot, Jamnagar, Daman & Diu, Gir forest, Palitana (the center for Jain Pilgrimage) and few more attractions. Its not a destination one would usually plan unless your a Gujarathi or Jain headed there to touch base with your roots, for your yearly temple visits, meeting relatives etc or if your like my elder sister strictly hunting  down non commercial places for touring.

In the heart of Saurashtra; admits the cotton and corn farms you will find Amreli. Now I have visited quite a few tier II and tier III cities in India mainly based in Uttar Pradesh and Maharashtra but there is something else about this land, the fresh air, docile people, scanty population and yet the town is hustling with movement during the morning and evenings. With afternoon sleep as a daily ritual and fancy flavoured Sodas for desserts; what caught my attention is the simple life, innocence of thought and action. Nope I am not going to crib and discuss the fast pace of life because that is the charm of metros and makes life worthwhile in cities like Mumbai but yes I would love to talk about the difference in mindset, innocence and lack of exposure which is peculiar to Amreli and similar cities which could convert any one whose lived here for over a month; into a full time family man.

And coming to the second most striking experience of Saurashtra is the Gujarati experience I was blessed with!

This trip was possible and full credit going to my dear friend Nikita; whose home town is Amreli. Nikita is one of the most non Gujju people I have ever come across. But her attachment and connection, stories and description of Amreli (her "so called backward Village" though its actually a Tier III) convinced me instantly to accompany her and given the fact I was going to burst out with stress in general, it made perfect sense to head to Amreli with her if I had to continue existing in Mumbai.

I was fortunate to stay with her close knit joint family, live the local experience, do immense traveling and meet some of the nicest people - her family in Amreli. Her Mama and Mami who removed four days to take us to Palitana, Somnath, Gir and the local farms on the out skirts of Amreli. Our Trip began with the fixed route trains Mumbai - Rajkot - Mumbai; an overnight journey. From Dhoda station in Gujarat; we drove down 180 kms to arrive at her hometown. We knew the trip was going to be a bumper when a snake crossed our path while driving (which is considered a highly auspicious sign in the land of Nagnath).Her home was in the heart of Amreli; in front of which was their family built temple; the finest and biggest there. Trying to keep it light and easy on day one, we decided to cover their farms and meet the farmers. Our actual discovery began with Palinata; having heard of this pilgrimage site from practically all my Jain friends I was certain on instantly liking this place. Unfortunately the town was closed the day we visited; nonetheless we covered the base temple. Subsequently we went to Somnath (one of the biggest Jyotilings in India). Legend has it that this natural Jyotiling emerged from the sea and the biggest discovered in India back then, thus the magnificent temple was constructed to house the Lord Shiva lingam. After a night's stay at Somnath we headed to Diu (with another snake crossing our road) and straight to Gangeshwar. And I am glad we did. One of my favourite places in the world now; Gangeshwar hosts 5 Shivlings under the hill and worshiped by the Arabian Sea! It is a small, quite and highly attractive place, one of a kind temple; not accessible in monsoons and during high tides. The waves hitting the Shivling, washing away all the offerings or perhaps accepting them on behalf of Lord Shiva lingers in the mind for a while. On our way back to Amreli we traversed through Gir Forest. Perfect timing as the early monsoons advent bringing with them a cool evening wind, lush greens and fuller streams! Fortunate as we had been so far; there it was, a gorgeous Lioness wandering along the narrow roads staring at our vehicle, almost as though she was acknowledging our presence yet ignoring us. Ahead were Deers, Jackals, Rabbits and a variety of birds. The forest would resemble a green canopy almost completely blocking the night sky creating a perfect arch effect as we drove slowly through it.

From the farmers to the Temples, small towns to the gigantic Diu Fort, the forest and fresh air... Saurashtra resembles the better parts of Rural India. With Balaji having over 70% of market share in the FMCG industry in Gujarat, the region is a playground for competitors wanting to penetrate the rural market. Needless to say the cotton farms flourishing here explain why Gujarat is the Textile capital of India.

Been thinking hard on the one line that best describes Gujarat... but with so much to offer, the state is a power in the making, a wonder yet to be fully discovered.